Self-Help: Colloid Master Trouble Shooting
- Read this first: The two most common issues
- How to determine if the Colloid Master is functioning correctly
- Using the Colloid Master built in water quality test function
- Dealing with water quality issues
- The green light won't stay on unless the start button is held in
- Neither the green light nor the red light will go on
- The batch seems to be taking too long or won't shut off
- Making standard batches
- Making larger batches
- Solar flares and environmental influences that effect the process
- Filtering the Final product
- The batch seems to shut off sooner than expected
- About the use of salt (sodium chloride) or NaHCO3 (bicarbonate of soda)
- About heating the water
- What happens when the Colloid Master process is complete?
- About stirring or using a bubbler
- How many parts per million does the Colloid Master make?
- What is the best PPM (Parts per Million) to use?
- About the color of colloidal silver
Read this first! The two most common issues
After 13 plus years of providing technical and customer support for the Colloid Master, we generally know within a few minutes of talking to a customer what the issue is. Based on these years of experience, we have complied this trouble shooting section which will help you right now. That said, feel free to call us if you are having a problem, we have the best customers on the planet and enjoy talking to you. Still the following is generally what we go over during any technical support call.
The two most common problems that people experience are; (1) the green light won't stay on and (2) The process seems to be running too long or won't shut off by itself. When either of these things occur, the normal response is to wonder if there is a problem with the Colloid Master. After you follow the tests below, you will see for yourself that any issues are easily determined by following the procedures below, and that actually dysfunctional Colloid Masters are rare to none.
The first thing we want to do is to assure you that we will take care of you and make sure you are happy with your Colloid Master. Because we are the manufacturer we can and will fix the problem if there actually is a problem. We also service the Colloid Master when it is past warranty.
That said, the number one issue is water quality, although you should follow the trouble shooting steps 1 - 4 which will allow you to test all functions of the Colloid Master and assist you to correct issues that can cause problems. All of this is covered if you keep reading and follow the simple steps explained below.
The Colloid Master was designed with the idea that it should be automated and shut itself off when the correct ppm is reached, thus making a reliable ppm each time. But that is not the only reason we designed the automatic shut off feature, we also wanted to make sure that the process would not work if contaminants were present in the water. The first step of every technical support call is to walk the customer through a few steps that either confirm that the Colloid Master is working correctly, or confirm that there actually is a problem with it. These tests are done as follows;
» top «
How to determine if the Colloid Master is functioning correctly
The steps to determine if the Colloid Master is working correctly:
- Check the specs on your power supply, the wall transformer that you plug into the outlet on the wall. Does the label say Output: 12 volts at 500mA? if not you may not be using the original power supply, Call us if you need to replace a lost or broken power transformer.
- Plug in your power supply if it is the correct specs as shown above, then plug the coaxial adapter from it into the Colloid Master.
- Turn the ppm dial to 10, take the electrode wires from the back of the Colloid Master and separate them so that they do not touch and set them on a nonmetallic surface.
- Start the Colloid Master all by itself as just described, not connected to the silver electrodes.
- Press the start/process button, if the green LED light (indicator) is on and stays on the Colloid Master is working correctly, and you can proceed to the next section to do the water quality shut-off test here.
- If the Colloid Master does not power-up, or the green light does not stay on when you start the Colloid Master by itself (not connected to the silver in water) then call us, because you most likely need a new wall transformer/power supply. (423) 261-2492 .
If the Colloid Master powers up meaning: The Colloid Master by itself (not connected to the silver in water) and when you press the start button the green indicator light remains on without holding in the start button, this indicates that the Colloid Master is working correctly nearly 100% of the time. The few exceptions are covered below. What we then need to do is determine that each feature is fully functional, and in the process you will become better acquainted with using and trouble shooting the Colloid Master. We will begin with the following procedures:
- Water quality test
- Automatic shut of feature test
» top «
Using the Colloid Master built in water quality test function
Since the Colloid Master was designed in essence to monitor PPM, it can also be used to test water quality. It is important to note that: the Colloid Master is only designed to work with pure distilled water, not tap or spring water. The water quality test is tied to the automatic shut off feature, so this test involves two steps.
(Step 1) The water quality test:
Fill your jar with water but not so full that it will spill if moved.
Suspend the electrodes into the water using the electrode holder which keeps the electrodes 1 1/4 inches apart. You may also hang the electrodes from the rim of the jar but the distance that the electrodes are apart should not exceed 2 1/2" inches. If a custom electrode holder is used the electrodes should be set at 1 /1/4" inches apart and no closer than 3/4" of an inch apart. The flat side of the electrodes should face each other.
Plug the wall power supply into the Colloid Master, turn the PPM adjuster dial to the highest setting (setting 10), press the green start button. If the green light does not stay on the water has more than 20 ppm of something in it and is not usable.
If the green light stays on, then very slowly turn the dial down toward the lowest numbered setting and observe where the green light goes out. If the green light does not go off at all, and instead remains on, this is very good and means the water is very pure. If the green processing light does not go off at any setting, it means the water has less than 1 PPM of dissolved solids in it and is pure.
If the green light goes out somewhere around setting #1 the water is acceptable, if the green light goes out at or above setting #3 the water is not generally considered pure enough, and a better quality water should be gotten or the distilled water you are using may need post-filtering. Also see dealing with water quality issues.
(Step 2) Testing automatic shut off feature:
In order for this test to work correctly, you must first validate the water quality test as described above in (Step 1), then proceed to this step.
First depress the spring loaded tab that connects the electrode wires to the back of the Colloid Master and remove each wire.
Then press the spring loaded tabs again and reinsert the electrode wires into the back of the Colloid Master, visually inspecting to make sure that only the metal wire not the plastic shielding makes contact with the visible metal part of the connector on the back of the Colloid Master.
With your jar of water and the electrodes still ready from having done (Step 1) above, now connect the electrode wires from the Colloid Master to the silver electrodes in the water.
Turn the PPM adjustment dial on the Colloid Master to setting # 10, then press the start process button.
The green processing light should stay on, if it doesn't stay on proceed to the section titled: The green light won't stay on unless the start button is held in.
If the green processing light stays on at setting # 10, then the most direct way to test if the automatic shut off feature is working is to now move the silver electrodes to an angle that causes them to touch IN THE WATER so that the energy goes into the water, not the Colloid Master.
If the green processing light on the Colloid Master shuts off when the electrodes are touched together in the water it is working correctly. It is not a feature that partially works, if it works it works correctly, if it becomes dysfunctional it will not work at all.
» top «
Dealing with water quality issues
As mentioned in all Colloid Master literature, the process is designed to only work with distilled water. The Colloid Master was designed to reliably make a consistent ppm each time. But that is not the only reason we designed the automatic shut off feature, we wanted to make sure that the process would not work if contaminants were present in the water. The most widely available water to use that meets this criteria is distilled water. Note: If available you may use deionized water, or pass your distilled water through de ionization media to prepare the water for processing, although it is not a requirement.
If you have used the Colloid Master water quality test function, and it failed there are several things to note:
The easiest solution generally speaking is to purchase a different brand of distilled water.
The second solution is to post-filter the distilled water. This is usually only needed if you are distilling your own water, and the reasons for this may include that; the stainless that was used to make your distiller may be leaching its metal into the final distilled water. Also, If you are distilling your own water the coconut-charcoal final filter may not be working adequately, or may need replacement.
The best quality to use is deionized reagent standard distilled water, but we get very good results using simple readily available methods to post-filter and increase water purity. One of the easiest and most inexpensive ways to post filter or clean-up distilled water is with a Britta ® pitcher filter. Their product literature claims 99.9% removal of contaminants. Most people have reported excellent results using the Britta ® pitcher filter.
Optionally, you can also confirm water quality with a portable water tester that digitally displays the total dissolved solids, or lack of them. We sell the Hanna Primo here.
If you started here and have not yet done steps 1-4 you should do so now.
» top «
The green light won't stay on unless the start button is held in
As described in the water test above, the Colloid Master knows if the water is pure or not. If the dial is turned to the highest setting and when the green start button is pressed and the green light goes on while the button is pressed, but it then goes off when you take your finger off of the start button, the following describes what you should do.
This normally indicates highly contaminated water. However this symptom can also be one of the only indicators of an actually dysfunctional Colloid Master.
How to determine if the problem is the Colloid Master or a water quality issue.
- Plug in the wall transformer and plug it into the Colloid Master.
- Press the spring loaded tabs on the back of the Colloid Master and completely remove the electrode wires.
- Set the Colloid Master to 10, plug the power supply into the Colloid Master and press start.
- If the green light stays on by itself the Colloid Master is ok. If the green light only stays on with the start button pressed in the Colloid Master has either been effected by an intense electrical line surge or lightning are the main reasons that the Colloid Master behaves like this. In this case you should call or email us and arrange to send the power supply along with the Colloid Master to us for repair.
- To avoid problems with the Colloid Master you should only plug your power supply into a surge-protector or better yet a surge protector lightning arrestor.
- If your Colloid Master works without holding in the start button then nearly 100% of the time it is a water quality issue. See the sections on Using the Colloid Master built in water quality test function and Dealing with water quality issues.
» top «
Neither the green light nor the red light will go on
The main reasons why the Colloid Master will not power up are:
- The power supply is wrong (lost in a move, misplaced or confused with another wall transformer and is actually the wrong one.)
- Bad contact from power supply into the Colloid Master (symptom: power flickers)
- The power supply is bad
- The Colloid Master itself is broken
When the Colloid Maser will not power up, 99.9% of the time it is due to a faulty or wrong power supply. The Colloid Master is built so well that we almost never have a problem with them, ever. However; if you have the correct power supply and the Colloid Master does not power up, then we ask that you call or email us to arrange sending both the power supply and Colloid Master to us for our tech dept to review your equipment.
If you are in an international location, due to shipping costs involved, it is usually a safe bet that the fix 99.9% of the time is to simply order a replacement power supply from us rather than sending the whole unit to us.
However, if you have completed the steps in the section above titled The green light won't stay on unless the start button is held in, and the green light on the Colloid Master did not stay on with the wires NOT connected to the silver in water, then you will need to send the Colloid Master to us for repair. If you are having a problem you can call us at (423) 261-2492 or email us now here.
» top «
The batch seems to be taking too long or won't shut off
The main reasons for this problem are:
- Electrodes too far apart or curved outward in the water
- Process is being influenced by Solar events such as a coronal mass ejection
- Too large of a batch size
The most common reason that the process runs longer than usual is from having the electrodes too far apart. You can avoid this problem by reading the section on Making standard batches or Making larger batches below. The other main reason that batches can run longer or not shut off as usual may be surprising at first glance, and some people will doubt the veracity of this instruction until their own experience proves that it is true that; solar flare energy/radiation that reaches Earth, can effect the colloidal production process. This issue is covered below in the section titled: Solar events and environmental influences.
The Colloid Master only cares about making small particles and only shuts off at the right ppm, the main thing that changes is the time it takes to make a batch. If you make a batch that is larger than 32 ounces, the electrode distance as well as the electrode size you are using effects the time it takes to make a batch, but the ppm and particles in general terms, will still be consistent.
Generally speaking, you get the best results when making a 32 ounce batch, and using an electrode holder to keep the electrodes at 1 1/4" inches apart. A 32 ounce batch with water that tests 1 ppm or less before beginning the process, using electrodes that a 6" inch X 1/2" or 1/4" inch .999 silver will average about 1.5 hours, and a 2 1/2" inch electrode spacing will average approximately 4 hours.
If you are using your own custom electrode holder the optimal electrode distance is 1 1/4" inches to no closer than 3/4" of an inch apart. If the electrodes are curved outward in the water this can cause the unit to take longer to shut off.
Other reasons that production time can vary
Production time and parts per million in general will vary primarily due to factors such as water quality, power source, having the jar too close to 220 Volt AC power lines or anything that creates moving magnetic fields such as a 220 Volt AC motors. Surprisingly one of the biggest concerns is the Sun, in particular solar events such as coronal mass ejections. This may seem odd at first, however; we have monitored numerous solar events that correlate to observed changes in the colloidal production time and resulting colloid for more than 13 years at the time of this writing. This issue is covered below in the section titled: Solar events and environmental influences that effect the process.
» top «
Making standard batches
The Colloid Master will work by hanging the electrodes on the rim of a standard size jar, like a canning jar. To determine if a jar is what we are calling a standard size, measure the distance across the top, it can not be more than 2 1/2" inches wide, if you are using the rim of the jar to suspend the electrodes. If using a standard jar it is best to use an electrode holder.
The Colloid Master works well with the electrodes on the rim across from one another, but when solar events occur the 2 1/2" inch distance between the electrodes increases the oxidation more than usual and inhibits the shut off feature. Therefore; it is always best to use an electrode holder and keep the electrodes about 1 1/4" inches apart. When using a standard jar and no electrode holder: position the electrodes across from each other, so that the flat side faces each other at about 2 1/2" inches apart and make sure the portion of the electrodes in the water are tilted more toward on another rather than outward.
Warning: if you use a wide mouth jar that has an opening that measures 3" inches across, or if you use and jar that places the electrodes more than 2 1/2" inches apart, then the colloid master will either run longer than normal or it will not shut off for a very long time.
Our rule of thumb is to use 32 ounce jar and an electrode distance of 1 1/4" inches to no closer than 3/4" of an inch and no further apart than 2 1/2 inches. Whenever a batch runs longer than usual by 2 hours, we call that batch done and shut it off. The only time this will ever occur is when Earth is being saturated by energy from solar flares. Also see Solar flares and environmental influences below.
The general range of time it takes to produce colloid is dependant upon; the setting used, batch size, electrode distance, electrode size and environmental conditions. The average time expected for setting 5 using .999 silver electrodes that ar 6" inches long by 1/2" or 1/4" inch, making a 32 ounce batch, takes approximately 1.5 hours if the water tests 1 ppm or less. Increasing the electrode distance increasing the time to make a batch, for example, 2 1/2" inch electrode distance will increase the average time to approximately 4 hours per batch.
The water quality, environmental and other variables such as volume of water of the batch, electrode distance and electrode size will cause variations in a manner that primarily effects the time to complete the process. You will become familiar after making several batches, and with experience you will become familiar with the subtleties of the process. Most people become creative and make the process their own in their own unique ways.
The time required to produce a batch of colloid at the same setting may vary slightly from one batch to the next, even when using the same water, this we believe is caused by the subtle influence of fluctuations caused by cosmic radiation that reaches Earth, as well as atmospheric interplays with such energies and the magnetic field of the Earth itself, and when conditions are sufficient to effect the production process, they do.
The good news is that even with constantly changing influences effecting the process the resulting colloid is very predictable overall. A consistently small particle size is maintained by the Colloid Master from batch to batch, as a result the colloid is stable batch to batch and the PPM is very repeatable. We have colloid in storage from over a 10 years ago that has remained about the same PPM as when it was stored, meaning within approximately 1 PPM of when it was stored. As a note the stored colloid we have ranges from 10 to 17 PPM.
» top «
Making larger batches
Note: Batch size should not exceed 1 gallon.
If you make a batch larger than 32 ounces, do not exceed 128 ounces (1 gallon).
If you are making one-gallon batches, the time it takes for the process to complete the batch can be 5-24 hours, depending on water quality and electrode size and distance it can be sooner than 5 hours but it should not take longer than 24 hours. If a gallon batch runs more than 24 hours, see the section on solar and environmental influences. Also the addition of a few ounces of previously made colloid as a starter can speed the process up.
When making larger batches closer electrode placement works best, most people making 1 gallon batches use a 1" inch or a 3/4" electrode distance. In any case, it is best to keep the electrode distance under 1 1/4" inches with larger batches. Also, it is usually helpful to use the longer 8" (Eight Inch) electrodes that we sell at our web store.
» top «
Solar events and environmental influences that effect the process
In terms of the Colloid Master stability, it functions the same way every time it is used, however; there are other factors to consider. Changes in environmental conditions effect the process such as ionization in the air that is transferred to the container during the process, as well as forms of cosmic energy from space and energy from solar events that reach Earth. That is why we do not use a timer, we have found that, in order to maintain small particles a precise adaptive process is required, realizing this is what lead to the creation of Colloid Master auto-shut off configuration.
During the process there is water and silver interacting with electrical current, silver atoms and ions are dispersed into the water, some silver combines directly with oxygen (silver oxide) on the electrodes. The silver oxide that is produced during the process will not become suspended into the liquid, because the material accumulated on the electrodes aggregates in to a much larger particle size, larger than one micron and particles of this type and size will not remain in suspension and instead they precipitate on to the bottom of the container.
At times of intense solar events, the silver oxide particles accumulate and fall off of the electrodes to become easily visible on the bottom of the production container. At these times there will also be a noticeable accumulation of the dark colored silver oxide on the electrodes, more so than usual. Solar events usually effect the process here on Earth for no more than 3 days, as a general rule of thumb.
The finished colloid should be filtered simply to remove the silver oxide material that falls to the bottom and is stirred up when pouring the liquid from the container it was made in, into another storage container. The colloid can be filtered and used or stored immediately after the process completes. Although you can use the finished batch immediately, it is usually best to wait for 36 to 72 hours as mentioned above, when the particles have finished dispersion and reached the stable-phase. See more information regarding filtering in the next section below titled: Filtering the final product
Solar events have a strong influence in terms of slowing the process of making a colloid, primarily because it causes increased oxidation, which inhibits silver form moving into the water and if it accumulates too much it inhibits the auto shut off sensing. The effects from solar events usually lasts about 3 days, which occurs especially when the sun produces a coronal mass ejection, and if the ejection is aimed our way the sun sends lots of high energy phenomena such as x-rays, gamma etc. our way.
You can monitor solar events yourself at the link below, which provides tools for monitoring solar events and the geomagnetic field.
http://solar-center.stanford.edu/weather.html
» top «
Filtering the Final product
The finished colloid should be filtered simply to remove the silver oxide material that falls to the bottom and is stirred up when pouring the liquid from the container it was made in, into another storage container. The colloid can be filtered and used or stored immediately after the process completes. Although you can use the finished batch immediately, it is usually best to wait for 36 to 72 hours as mentioned above, when the particles have finished dispersion and reached the stable-phase.
The approach that you personally take to filter the finished product must be approached carefully. If you use any filter media that is made from plastics, it can adversely effect the ions in the solution and can even cause the colloidal particle clusters to aggregate. The easiest method we have found is to use three non bleached coffee filters in a funnel gravity filter system. A better approach is to use paper filter media and a vacuum filter.
That said, we have found that when paper filter media is used, it is best to be mindful that the paper has not been chemically treated. It is best to use paper that is non bleached and does not contain anti microbial or other chemicals. Such things as formaldehyde, which may be used during the paper production process of bleached paper is very undesirable. We are not a lab supply and because of the complexities involved we do not sell filter media or systems. A search for the term lab supply provides plenty of options. For most of our work we use 3-4 brown paper coffee filters and a gravity or vacuum filter method with appropriately sized paper filter discs.
» top «
The batch seems to shut off sooner than expected
The usual reason that a batch will shut off sooner than expected is because the distilled water is not pure enough (also see Using the Colloid Master built in water quality test function). However, we need to qualify what is meant by sooner. If a batch runs less than 45 minutes with less than pure water, that is normal. With very pure distilled water the process runs approximately 1.5 hours with a 1 1/4" inch electrodes spacing and about 3-6 hours with a 2 1/2" inch electrode spacing, as averages for a 32 ounce batch.
The next most common reason that a batch shuts off sooner than normal is when the electrodes are closer than 1" inch, which can cause the process can shut off sooner.
Generally, the electrodes should not be closer than approximately 1 1/4" inch to 1" inch apart, unless the batch is larger than 32 ounces.
The Colloid Master only cares about making small particles and only shuts off at the right ppm, the main thing that changes is the time it takes to make a batch. If you make a bigger than 32 ounce batch that changes the time, the electrode distance as well as the electrode size you are using effects the time it takes to make a batch, but the ppm and particles will still be consistent.
Generally speaking, you get the best results when making a 32 ounce batch, and using our electrode holder to keep the electrodes1 1/4" inches apart. If you are using your own custom electrode holder the optimal electrode distance is 1 1/4" inches to 1 3/4" of an inch apart. If the electrodes are curved in the water and are too close this can cause the unit to shut off sooner. If you have reviewed this material and still have questions or concerns feel free to call or email us.
» top «
About the use of salt (sodium chloride) or NaHCO3 (bicarbonate of soda)
We do not use salt or bicarbonate of soda as a part of colloid production. There are or have been proponents of the use of those materials, which is used to increase conductivity in the water, usually this is done in order to compensate for the inadequacies of the overall control of the process, and speed the process up. However, taking this approach causes variations in the process and the resulting colloid dispersion that our opinion is undesirable, such as creating particle-clusters that are too large, which causes the finished product unstable or in other ways to be degraded.
If one wishes to speed the process using the Colloid Master the only method that will work is the addition of 1 to 3 ounces of previously made colloid to the fresh distilled water before starting a new batch. The starter is added after the water test or when using water of known adequate quality. Adding previously made colloid as a starter will decrease the time needed to complete the process.
Using previously made colloid as a starter is the optimal method. The use of a 1 -3 ounces of previously made colloid as a starter may decrease the time that the process takes to complete, but it does not generally increase PPM or otherwise measurably alter the end results from the usual outcome.
» top «
About heating the water
Heating the water is not required with the Colloid Master, it is designed to work at room temperature meaning an Environment: 60 to 105 F (15.5 - 40.5 Celsius).
Some users indicate that they are using a heating device to maintain a water temperature that varies from user to user, but is below boiling, and they prefer this approach. The bonds in the water are more malleable at warmer temperatures, and there may be a benefit in taking this approach for you. Again, as always, the Colloid Master is a very adaptable device in terms of how people use it. You will need to test the resulting colloidal dispersion to see if such changes in term of how you produce dispersions leads to the results you yourself are looking for.
» top «
What happens when the Colloid Master process is complete?
The Colloid Master shuts off automatically. At that point the electrodes can be removed. The water (dispersion medium) combined with the silver particles will go through a dispersion-phase during the first 36-72 hours. During this time the particles create stable associations forming nano-clusters. After the first 36-72 hours the particles are in a stable-phase or state, relatively speaking. It is of particular importance to keep the colloid out of direct sunlight during the first 36-72 hours. For storage of the finished product is best to use a brown glass container if the material will be exposed to light, or a clear glass container stored in a dark location. Alternately amber glass or a ceramic container that does not allow any light through. Blue glass does not work as well as brown/amber glass. We usually filter the colloid after 72 hours then store it.
» top «
Stirring during the process of making colloidal silver
The Colloid Master does not use or need a mechanical stirring mechanism. The Colloid Master employs a bi-directional current pattern to the electrodes which electronically changes the positive and negative positions periodically. The pulse induced by the polarity change, in effect, causes the silver particles to be electrokinetically stirred. The Colloid Master was the first device of this type to employ these features, which have been a standard feature since 1998. By design, we effectively addressed this issue long before others even thought to consider it.
We have noticed that when some users reported that they were using a fish-tank bubbler to keep the water moving during the process, that then the solution was often clear even after the 72 hour period. Although this is a rather complex issue, because the air itself now must be considered, contaminants carbon etc. must then be taken into account, but the bottom line reason generally speaking, is that dispersions made this way can become mostly ionic and true colloidal particles may be inhibited from being produced. If you choose to experiment with stirring you are on your own.
» top «
How many parts per million does the Colloid Master make?
- The dial of the Colloid Master goes from 1 to 10
- For silver the dial setting is approximately one half of the PPM.
- Example: setting 5 is approximately 10 ppm.
- The generic 1-10 setting was used because originally users wanted to use other metals such as zinc for the process, thus a generic setting scheme was chosen.
» top «
What is the best PPM (Parts per Million) to use?
This is really a matter of the intended end use, however we do not provide advice or consulting with regard to individual applications or use of the silver dispersions. That said, based on our research, it has been our long standing opinion that the optimal range for making a stable silver dispersion with water as the dispersion medium is 10 to 17 PPM.
There are many factors that we took into consideration when making this decision, including the particle size as well as the overall colloidal integrity and stability. In our opinion, the silver dispersion is saturated with sub-micron silver particles in balance with the ionic content at approximately 13.5 PPM and that the best range is 10 PPM to 17 PPM generally speaking.
Although higher parts per million can be forced or attained via other processes, our research has convinced us that forcing higher PPM usually causes the particles to aggregate into larger particles, which in our opinion compromises the quality, integrity and in effect causes the colloidal dispersion to be less stable and desirable. We use setting 5 to setting 6 to achieve a 10 -13 PPM solution that we use for most of our work.
» top «
About the color of colloidal silver
To make sense of the colloidal silver color issue I will quote from a paper by "Paul Mulvaney - Berich Strahlenchemie, Hahn-Meiter institut, D - 1000, berlin, 39, Germany" Titled " Colloidal Silver: Charge-Transfer Process and Photochemistry"
"In this report we present some recent results on charge-transfer and chemisorbtion process on colloidal silver. It has been found that the surface plasmon absorption band of colloidal silver, which is responsible for the yellow color of silver sols, is very sensitive to changes in the state of the colloid surface."
"The positively charged sols have a yellow-brown color, while negatively charged sol particles are a pale yellow.)"
" The absorption band maxima is shifted to shorter wavelengths when the particle becomes negatively polarized. Thus, the optical spectrum can, in principle, be used to determine whether a silver sol is negatively or positively polarized." "One difficulty is to determine the wavelength of the absorption maximum when silver is uncharged (i.e., at the so-called plasma null point or PNP.)" [End quote]
Colloidal silver can appear to be light yellow to yellow-brown like tea, not because of excessive oxidation as is sometimes reported, the main consideration is the surface plasmon absorption band polarization. The color is due to the light refraction of the yellow to yellow red/brown part of the light spectrum.
It is possible for contaminants or oxidation to be a factor regarding the color of colloidal material generally speaking, but the Colloid Master will not function if contaminants are present. The colors described above are a result of polarized charge contained in the surface plasmon absorption band, not contaminants or oxides.
The reason is somewhat like explaining why the sky is blue. In this case the colloidal liquid is light yellow to a deep golden color because silver particles absorb the blue part of the light spectrum while the yellow red light spectrum is emitted as the golden color.
Colloidal silver is defined as particles and clusters of silver in the 1 -100 nanometer size range. A particle is at least two atoms of silver, each atom has at least 47 orbital electrons. Colloidal silver is particle-clusters that are approximately 1 nanometer to 1 micron in size, that are dispersed into a liquid, this accurately describes colloidal silver.
Technically speaking, liquids other than water could still accurately describe colloidal silver, the addition of proteins may also still qualify as a colloid, even compounds may at times qualify, but when we speak of colloidal silver we mean 1 nm to 1 micron silver particles in water specifically, and no other additives.
Colloidal particles are in a state of dynamic-balance and are in essence electrically neutral (not positive or negative) because the two charges present within the cluster itself are in a state of equilibrium, for the most part, yet it is the interplay of the particles and the medium that causes the particles to be in constant-motion and evenly suspended and stable, which also describes the colloidal state itself. The thing to keep in mind is that colloidal silver is not just the silver in water that is the colloid, the medium itself (the water) is a part of the colloidal-system.
» top «
In the unlikely event you have a dysfunctional unit, or just want to talk to a live person call customer support (423) 261-2492. If you have questions before buying feel free to give us a call. You can rest assured you will always have any problem or question addressed in timely fashion.
| Privacy and Site Notice | Contact | Site Map | Web Store |
(Updated 6/14/2010)
We accept all major credit cards, PayPal, Google-Checkout and mail-orders.
Integrity Quality and Service.
The smart way to do business!
» top «
